Most of my lamp bases are finished with a natural beeswax finish. This finish is applied at the completion of the lamp, and should be reapplied periodically when the wood looks parched (dry or very matte). How often the finish needs to be reapplied depends on the environment the lamp lives in. Applying a new coat of beeswax every few years is a good way to ensure the longevity of your Ud Lamp.
For my white oiled lamps, the white oil is also a finish that should also be reapplied periodically. However, you can choose to only apply beeswax to these lamps, allowing more of the wood's natural color to come through as it ages. If you like the look of the fresh, white lamp, applying two coats of Danish White Oil with a rag every couple years will keep your lamp looking brand new.
Keeping your lamp shade dusted is the best way to keep it looking its best. Avoid water or solvent cleaners as these can create spots (especially when the light is on). If you get something on the inside liner of the shade, a slightly damp cloth can be used to clean it, but avoid the fabric areas of the shade.
If you need to clean your pillow, first remove the pillow insert. Laundering instructions for the insert can be found on the inside tag.
Laundering instructions for the pillow cover will vary based on the fabric. Please contact me if you are unsure of the material to confirm that there are no special instructions. If the pillow is cotton, linen, or wool turn the pillow cover inside out and wash in cold on the gentle cycle, then air dry.
If the pillow is silk, hand wash in cold water using minimal detergent, then air dry.
I would love it if you reused or recycled your candle vessels. There are a few tricks for removing wax from a vessel so it can start its life anew. Heating up the wax to melt it or cooling the wax down so it turns brittle are the most common answers you'll find on the internet. But, I don't find that either of those are really necessary with my candles. Since my wax is a blend of soy and beeswax, it has a higher melting point than many waxes, and it tends to naturally pull away from the sides of the vessel. Because of these features, I find it easiest to use a butter knife to break through the wax a couple times (very satisfying) until it is broken up enough to remove from the vessel. Once the wax is gone, pour warm water into the vessel and allow it to sit until the wick and metal wick holder come right out. This part takes the longest, but it's a set-it-and-forget-it solution. Check on it in a while, and if the sticker is still attached to the bottom, add some more warm water and a wait a little longer. Lastly, rub any remaining wax reside from the sides of the vessel with a hot rag or paper towel (something you don't mind getting wax on). And for especially stubborn wax, use a little Dawn dish soap on the hot rag.
Trim your candle wick to ¼ inch before each light to avoid smoking and overheating. Once the flame is extinguished make sure the wick is upright and centered.
The first time you burn your candle, make it a nice long burn so the entire top layer of wax can create a pool. This will ensure an even burn for each new lighting and prevent the wick from tunneling through the center of the candle. Refrain from burning your candle longer than 3 hours at a time, and never burn a candle when there is less than ¼ inch of wax at the base.
And a few other safety notes - always protect the surface of which the candle sits. Burning candles should be supervised at all times. And always be careful when burning candles with kiddos nearby.